Surfactivity

my whole life is this escape

my whole life is this wave I drop into, set the whole thing up, pull off a bottom turn, pull up into it, and shoot for my life, going for broke man... and behind me all this shit goes over my back... the screaming parents, teachers, the police, priests, politicians, kneeboarders, windsurfers, they're all going over the falls into the reef...

mickey dora. surfers, the movie [1989]